13/04/17
We went to Buddha park, 23 km from Vientiane by local bus. Nice place !
Built by only one guy & renovated by locals from villages around. There are lot of different & original statues.
14/04/17
Sabaidee Pee Mai ! Everybody was going crazy in the streets with waterfights, music, dance, beers.. We were walking out of the city center when we met this Lao family & friends who invited us to celebrate with them.
They were really sweet, we spent an amazing moment ! Khop chai (thank you)
15/04/17
Time to leave the capital to Konglor (south east) by hitchhiking. We wanted to try it in Laos to meet people & also to save money because the bus are quite expensive for our budget..
The first car was a pick up with Tui & his friends who were going south to celebrate Pee Mai with other friends. They actually passed us but came back because they felt sorry ! Very nice of them ! They could speak english & we had conversations about Laos, France.. They showed us a beautiful temple on the road. I hope to see you again guys !
The 2nd lift was also a pick up but we didn't speak with the family.. Nina & me were at the back.. we were happy to keep moving on the road but it was very hot.. 40° outside. We burnt !
They dropped us at a petrol station, 40 km far from Konglor & we waited quite a long time until a mini van took us. It was a strange moment because they were all drunk.. anyway we reached the village in one day (around 300km). We joined Alex there (Nina's best friend) !
Stay at "Enjoy boy" guest house in the middle of the village ! Sweet, quiet & cheap place !
16/04/17
Konglor is such a beautiful place, in the middle of "nowhere" surrounded by Kast. Kast is a remarkable & rugged landscape. Formed when soluble rock like limestone is eroded by water. Karstic landscape are characterised by caves. Underground river & steep, pointed picks which are called "tsingy" .
The morning we decided to visit the cave which attracts a lot of people. We took a boat,
& went inside on 7 km. It was so impressive.
Then we came out the cave from her other side for few minut. Magic !
Thanks to our driver who is a superhero to drive in the dark just with a torch !
17/04/17
Hitchiking again to Seno, southern. We had to take a tuk tuk to join the closest city next to the road 13 because the roads were empty.. then a Vietnamese man drove us for 1h. The roads were crazy & the landscape more and more pretty.
Then a local guy gave us a lift until Thakek for 2 hours. It was frustrated because we couldn't speak Lao & him english so very hard to communicate.. We met Alex again there for lunch. He is traveling by motorbike which is the best way to travel in Laos if you have time, a bit of experience & money. If I come back one day here I would love to travel with. After a yummy meal we waited 2 hours try to find a car but it was difficult. We were sweating, desperated.. we knew that there was a mini bus to go there but it's full of people.. even a local guy helped by writing us a sign !
Like in Thailand it's not easy to explain that it's our way of traveling. & Then a girl & her mum stopped. They were actually going further than Seno. Savers !! Hitchiking is a lot of patience but we chose it so we have to deal with it. We realised that all the people who gave us a lift are treasure because see some hitchikers is not common for them.
Seno is a small city where you have nothing to do.. locals looked so surprised to see us..We didn't feel very comfortable but it was just for one night. I should take pictures of the room we had.. dirty one..
18/04/17
We woke up at 6:30 am. Ready to reach Champasak, our destination at 220 km. We asked one guy to drive us 2 km on the main road & he accepted. Then we realised that the road was quite empty.. aie.. but after a little while a local took us for 35 km! He dropped us in a town where the traffic was better. We walked a bit & few minutes after a man, alone in his pick up stopped. We stayed with him for 3 hours until Paksé, a touristic city where we saw Alex walking. Funny ! It was noon so we had lunch & after we walked 2 km to be on the good road to Champasak. Still a very hot weather.. damn ! And we waited there 2 hours even if there were a lot of cars.. it was frustrated because Champasak is just at 30 km from Paksé. Like the day before we finally got a lift by a Lao family at the back of their pick-up.
Holy shit we made it !! Welcome to Champasak !!
There are many guest house, we stayed at "Khamphouy" . Good one for 3,50 $ each...
19/04/17
We visited Vat Phou world Heritage site, UNESCO.
Vat Phu (meaning "mountain temple"), is situated on a hillside and offers stunning views over the surrounding land and Mekong River. Visitors who appreciate art and history will be amazed by the magnificent workmanship in this ruined Khmer temple complex in the form of temple pillars, barays, lintels, pediments, terrace, courtyard, walls, doorways, sanctuary, shrine, library and palaces.
1000 years old..
Some people are renovating the site..
Then you have to climb some steps to see a temple at the top
& enjoy the view !!
There is also one hindu temple next to Vat Phou, 2 km on the left when you arrive. It's a small one & much more destroyed but it stays amazing. What people built in the past through religion is unbelievable..
My mum is a history teacher so I always think about her when I visit this "kind of places" .
20/04/17
Alarm at 7 am. What are we doing today ? Let's go to the 4000 islands, southern of Laos. By hitchiking ? No, apparently it's too complicated because the road to go there is empty & all the cars are almost just mini van for tourist. We don't want to risk it under this shining sun so we do like others : take the mini bus.. For that we have to go first from Champasak to the other side of Mekong river with a boat !
And here we are, on our way to the islands !
It's just crazy when we think that we will spend few days on an island, in Laos, on the Mekong ! Who could believe that one day I will be here with my cousin ? Not me
Arrived in Nakasang, the town from where the boats go to the island. 4000 ? Which one are we supposed to choose ? Apparently we are allowed to visit 3 of them. We chose Done Khon at 30 min by local boat ! Why ? "Done Khon is a big, relaxing & quiet island" . I can already see myself laying down on a hommoc with a fruit shake.. what a hard life !
The vegetation is still crazy here, jungle trip ! Swimming in the Mekong ? Hmm..
Nina : I have to say that when I see what they are fishing I don't really know if I wanna go in..
We remembered of this fisher man who does the tv show "Monster river" & there was one about the Mekong.. Anyway we have to find a guest house first. "Por Boun Phan" guest house owned by a Lao family who was still celebrating Pee Mai. "Do you want beer ?" "Why not ! " Let's have a glass with ice ( yes they put ice in it which is a crime in France..)
It was already the afternoon so we went to a restaurant to catch the wifi & plan our trip to Cambodia (2 days before going there of course..) . And then for a walk around.
We met Alex in the evening & said good bye ! He sell his motobike & has to go back to Thailand & take a flight back home..
21/04/17
What should we do ? Stay in a hommoc all day long ? No, we will feel guilty.. we can't be as lazy as we were in Koh Lanta.. you can visit the island by bicycle, scooter or tuk tuk but we wanted to walk to the other side ! There are also many waterfall to see but you always have to pay entry fees. & We are a bit sick to pay for "nature".. we walked two hours in a small path
in the jungle
to reach a very nice view point where we decided to have a drink on a hommoc for one hour.. we finally did it :) that was relaxing !
Then we walked back to the guest house to take care of papers.. I paid my taxes online on an island in Laos.. sounds crazy ! And for dinner we went to an Indian restaurant, couldn't resist to samosa temptation! At 9 pm, everything was close & quiet ! Early bed time !
22/04/17
Bye bye Laos, time to start our trip in Cambodia. Before writing my opinion about the country, let me explain how we crossed the border..
First we took a boat to Nakasang where we arrived 2 days ago.
Then we had to find a tuk tuk but mission Impossible! And the motobike tuk tuk didn't want to bring us until there because of the police (we didn't really understand why but they looked like they are not allowed to bring farang (foreigners) there.. which is smart for the bus company because they charge more money for that)
But after talking with one of them "I bring you 3 km further where you can find a lot of tuk tuk for cheap". We shouldn't trust him.. okay he dropped us on the main road, 20 km before the border but there were no tuk tuk. It was 9 am already & we had to move quickly because at 10 am the bus goes & it will be "full" of others travelers.. and it's not a good thing because this border is famous for "black money". I will explain that later. Shit.. we are stucked.. let's hitchike ! One blue truck took us but the driver didn't understand that we wanted to go to the border (even if we repeated Cambodia) & we realised it few miles after when he turned right to a waterfall he was going instead of staying on the main road. Oh damn ! It's 9:30 am. We have to go back to the main road even if we won't find a tuk tuk we will need to catch the tourist bus.. We stopped a pick up with 2 guys !
" Pleeease we need to go to the border to Cambodia "
" No no no "
" Just bring us to the main road it's 3 km please "
" Okok "
Thanks ! When we were on the main road again we saw a van coming & hitchiked straight & the car stopped.
"Yes I'm going to the border"
A local guy who was bringing drinks & food to his restaurant located just before the border. Luuucky us !!
1st step : get an exit stamp from Laos immigration which is normally free !
- 2$ per person for the stamp ?
- what ? We never had to pay for a stamp. This is corruption !
It's not about the amount it's about the fact that we don't want to participate to this black money thing. Illegal ! So we said no and the guys gave us back our passport.
- No pay, no stamp ! Go to Cambodia ! 5$
- Oh now it's 5$ ?!
Yeah going to the second border without Laos exit stamp it's impossible.. smart ! We stayed in front of their office, watched them & asked again : can we please have the stamp ? & after 10 min they did it. Done ! Let's walk to the Cambodia visa border ! (Few meters after )
2nd step : get our visa after escaped 1$ black money because I didn't have my international vaccination paper, the yellow one (in my bag stolen in India). They have no right to ask you money for that.
The funniest was after we filled the form & prepared the 30$ visa.
- 35 $ !
- the visa for french is 30$
- 5$ for the stamp !
- No !
- Okay
One more time, they pushed away our passport.. Hmm they looked nervous & spoke loud but it's cool guys we had time (bus ticket booked in 1 hour) . We went outside for a smoke when the touristic bus arrived. And of course everybody paid the fake extra 5$. In immigration office pocket ! I definitely prefer to give this fucking 5$ to someone who really needs it in Cambodia. They don't ! We waited the group to get their visa & try again. Fail ! We went back outside for an other smoke when 2 of the guys joined us & started to speak & laugh with Nina. And few minutes after we had our visa for the good amount. A couple arrived by motobike and one of the guy told Nina : " if they ask you it's 35 $ " . (Crazy.. we didn't)
We moved just after to get our stamp & joined AVT company, outside the immigration to take our bus to Siem Reap.
So if you don't care about black money & few $ , good for you ! But if not, just be patient & have a lot of humour ! I think they actually liked the fact that we didn't want to forgive ! Good luck !
Briefing Laos :
20 days it's short to understand & have an opinion about a country but the things that I can say are :
- landscapes are amazing & much more in the south. I hope you like green color ;)
- Laos new year proved us that locals like celebrate & party which is so cool ! Be careful to Lao Lao (local alcohol) !
- if you can't support hot temperature don't go there in April !!
- traveling there in motobike is the best way ever (I will do it for sure if I have a next trip in Asia) & it's cheaper than the bus
- prices are not really fixed.. depends on the places & on your face
- we feel french colonisation in some cities & are not proud of it at all...
- hitchiking is not common but can work with patience & time
- hard to communicate with people.. we were frustrated to not speak the local language because all the relation could be different.
- people don't care about you ! If you smile to one person don't expect one smile back everytime. "You are foreigner, you have money, so what ?" This is one thing we liked ! But sometimes it was hard to understand what they were thinking about us..
- the locals we met & could speak english with them were very friendly & helpful !
- negociate if you already have an idea of the price
- good food but same (noodle soup, fried noodles, fried & sticky rice, papaya salad, laap)
- kids are sweet with a strong character (funny)
We really felt that we had one feet inside the country & the other outside.. Laos, interesting place...